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Chartering in the British Virgin Islands (BVI)

 

Over the years, I’ve run charters in the BVI over a dozen times, hung out with Kid Rock and Kenny Chesney at a bar, and even officiated a wedding in international waters.  On board, we’ve had everything from steak and baked potatoes to bananas foster, from rum drinks mixed with freshly harvested coconut water to lobster fettuccine alfredo.  I was even hired to bring a band from island to island for a 50th wedding anniversary flotilla.  I loved my first trip to the BVI so much, I tried to buy the Spirit of Anegada, a 39′ gaff rigged daysail charter boat, but ran into problems because of my American citizenship.  I think the British are still a bit miffed about that whole independence thing.  By the way, the Coke is more expensive than the rum down there.  Anyway, here are some observations for people contemplating their first trip to the BVI.

The British Virgin Islands is the number one sailing vacation destination in the world, for good reason.  The weather is relatively consistent, you’re never far from civilization as the islands have sufficient infrastructure for most of your needs, and the sailing primarily consists of short hops from island to island that are the equivalent to sailing around the San Juans. A four to six hour sail is pretty standard for any given day. Remember, they want you on a mooring ball by 5PM.  The BVI has just enough of a different culture to feel exotic, but is not remote enough to feel like you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere. The USVI feels just like you’re in America, with strip malls, big box stores, etc.  For a sailor, a vacation in the BVI will feel like a fantasy in paradise, with breathtaking vistas everywhere you look. Because it’s so easy to sail there, you can have the confidence to relax and plot the course for your own bareboat vacation. Even though everything under the waterline is a national marine sanctuary, the British allow you to pump your head directly overboard. Keep this in mind when taking your morning swim, because the boat upwind of you might be taking advantage of that policy.

Timing
Hurricane season starts at the beginning of June and lasts until November. During those months, discounts are available for the “low season”, but you run the risk of getting rained on. You can get cancellation insurance with some charter companies that might cover this contingency.
Holidays are also “high season”, but the weeks before Thanksgiving, between Thanksgiving and Christmas, and the weeks after New Years are priced reasonably. May is considered “high season” also, but you can take your chances and sneak into June if you’re lucky. I once had a monsoon start pouring on us just as we were stepping on the plane to leave during the first week of June.

The Company
The Moorings & Sunsail are the premier charter companies in the world. They get new boats and have a lot of amenities where throngs of people vacation. Their bases look like Ellis Island during WWI. They also treat you like a number. If you’re fine with paying for new boats and huge clubhouses, then fine. We charter with the second-hand fleets that get the Moorings/Sunsail boats when they’re retired after five years (i.e. BVI Yacht Charters, Footloose, etc.). There are trade-offs. The boats are older, and a bit more beat up, but they’re also “broken in” and considerably less expensive. We met a group at Foxy’s on Jost Van Dyke who had a brand new boat, and all kinds of things were going wrong with it.

Some of these companies also have referral and/or repeat customer discounts, so they get even cheaper when you do it again. Some companies will limit where you can go (i.e. Anegada), but some don’t seem to care. If you want to do a “crossing” over to Anegada (14 miles due North from Bitter End Yacht Club), then make sure your company will allow you to do so (by the way, it’s worth the trip). Discounts are available everywhere for Sunsail charters, but if their original prices are high enough, then the discount just puts them back in the same ballpark. Different companies have a different number of bases and locations, so if you want to go to Tahiti or Antigua, and a repeat customer discount would help you in the future, you might want to take that into consideration.

On a slightly unrelated note, we use credit cards that have airline miles associated with them, so if you use a Continental credit card to book the charter, then the miles will help offset the price of airfare to get down there. If you don’t rack up enough miles for that trip, you might at least get enough miles every other, or every third trip, depending on usage.

Monohull vs. Catamaran
Monohulls give you a very “salty” feel when you’re sailing in the Caribbean. They heel over and you really get to plow through the waves like Blackbeard and Sir Francis Drake. Some people like this, and some don’t. Monohulls will point a bit better, but have slower speeds, so it can tend to be a wash. Monohulls have less interior volume, so depending on the size of your party, that may be a factor. If you get a monohull with two staterooms, the one aft will be much roomier than if you get a three cabin model. Monohulls will rock more when you’re on a mooring ball. If you’re used to sailing a monohull, then chartering one may make you feel a bit more confident on your vacation. Monohulls have a deeper draft, so be careful if you go to Anegada in one. Tacking a large monohull is just like tacking a small one. You bring the jib over as it’s luffing.

Catamarans are big, in all ways. They’re wide, which means they have a lot of interior volume for lots of amenities. There are more cabins, more heads, and more privacy. They’re also a bit tricky to maneuver. They have two engines and twin throttle controls. This allows you more maneuverability, but also makes it harder to see the corners. They don’t point quite as well. On the other hand, they have full-roach main sails, which grab more wind and scoot you along faster. This additional speed can make up for the larger angle of attack. Cats are great for larger parties, people unused to sailboats heeling, people looking for more comfort and amenities, and kids. Cats draw almost no water, so there’s no problem if you decide to sail to Anegada. Tacking a catamaran can be tricky. Make sure you get up your boat speed, then allow the jib to backwind to help push you through the tack. Once you’re safely on the other tack, you can bring the jib across. The jibsheets tend to snag on the winch at the base of the mast that’s used to set the mainsail, so keep the lazy sheet tight as the jib comes across. Because there’s very little ballast on a catamaran and lots of freeboard/windage, there’s very little momentum to push you through the tack. One of the biggest benefits of a catamaran is the extra cabin will undoubtedly provide another couple to defray the cost of the charter with. Also, catamarans often have tiny cabins in the bows that are perfect for kids.

Both boats usually have stack packs for housing the main sail. Furling mainsails have been phased out because of jamming problems. Most boats also have lazy jacks, so raising and lowering the mainsail while motoring directly upwind is critical to keep the battens from fouling. Both boats use the same systems on board. The 12V batteries, head, propane stove, etc. are identical.

Getting There
One way to get to the BVI is to fly into St. Thomas, then take a ferry over to Tortola. This lets you see a bit more stuff while you’re waiting to be ferried around, but nothing terribly spectacular. The ferry schedule can be on “island time”, which means if you’ve got any time constraints, it can be a little anxiety inducing. The ferry is also how locals get to and from work and get all their purchases back to the BVI from Costco, so the ferry won’t leave until they’re done loading all of the goods the locals have purchased. You’ll still have to take a taxi from the ferry landing to the charter base, as it’s a long, confusing way to drag your luggage.
Our preferred way to get there is to fly to Puerto Rico, then grab a prop plane to Beef Island. The layovers in Puerto Rico can be long, but that’s where they make Bacardi rum, so it’s not too bad. The puddle jumper can be a bit scary, but the views out the windows are pretty enough to take your mind off the noise and smell of exhaust. Beef Island has a pretty short runway that starts right at the water’s edge, so it can be exciting. Once you land and go through Customs, you’ll need to grab a taxi around to the charter base. This can actually be a pretty exciting experience. The roads are narrow and twisty, there are herds of goats and other domesticated critters to negotiate. We’ve also seen very colorful funerals happening in the cemeteries along the side of the road.

Destinations

Tortola – The main island of the BVI chain.

  • Road Town – Where most of the charter companies are based. There’s a relatively large town, with lots of shopping. Also, one of the three Pusser’s Company Stores is located here, so you can get your Pusser’s Triangle passport started by ordering a world famous painkiller. They have a webcam there so the folks at home can see you having fun.
  • Cane Garden Bay – A favorite place to send the cruise ship crowd, so it can be overwhelming if there’s one sitting in Road Town. There are a lot of nice bars and restaurants along the strand.  It’s also home to the oldest rum distillery in the western hemisphere.  The tour guide is a kid and there’s a tasting at the end.
  • Soper’s Hole – A pretty civilized touristy place. Boutique shopping, provisioning and another Pusser’s Company Store are all on the South Side. On the North side is The Jolly Roger Inn, a great place to have a night’s worth of food and drink. You can watch the sea bass frolic in the water off the dinghy dock. They have a webcam.
  • Bomba Shack – The full moon mushroom tea party to attend if that is your thing. Located just West of Cane Garden Bay, if you’re there on the full moon (and you don’t have any drug tests in your immediate future), you might want to consider attending. It occasionally gets damaged by hurricanes, but they always rebuild.

 

Norman Island

  • William Thornton (aka Willie T) – One of the most famous destinations in the BVI. You used to be able to jump naked (usually after a few shot-skis), crawl back up onto the dinghy dock (bad naked), and be rewarded with a “I Came, I Drank, I Jumped” t-shirt. A recent liability issue has put an end to that activity, but it’s still a great place to eat and drink. It’s a short hop from Tortola, so can be a great way start, end (or both) your trip. On the way there, stop at The Indians rocks for a snorkel.
  • Pirate’s Bight – A neat bar sitting right on the beach. The prices in the gift shop are evidently trying to pay for the serious remodel they did a couple of years ago, but it’s a great place to watch the sun set. They have a webcam.
  • Treasure Island Caves – Great snorkeling awaits you here. You can either moor your boat or tie your dinghy to a hitching line. The fish are evidently fed quite often, so they’re glad to see you. Swimming into the caves is very cool, and you can see why there was a real treasure buried here and was found by locals, which inspired the novel. I’ve had problems with stinging plankton here. The sound you hear underwater are the parrotfish chewing on the coral.

 

Cooper Island/Salt Island

  • Cooper Island Beach Club – A very nice place to be for happy hour. They have a buy one, get one free policy. They have a webcam
  • Wreck of the Rhone – The sunken Royal Mail Ship is very cool snorkel. You can see the ribs of the ship, lots of structure, and a large variety of marine life checking it out along with you. We’ve seen large manta rays flying by. If you’re a good free-diver, you can make it down into the structure on the shallow end of the wreck.

 

Virgin Gorda - North Sound is where Sir Francis Drake gathered his fleet before attacking the Spanish Armada in Puerto Rico.  On your way out of North Sound, you can see Necker Island, Sir Richard Branson’s private island so keep an eye out for his submarine.

  • Spanish Town – There’s lots to do in Spanish Town. We like it because it’s a bit more low-key than Bitter End. The Mine Shaft is one of the best bars I’ve ever been too, with a great view of sunset over the Drake Channel. Make sure to try the house specialty cocktail.  It’s quite a production.
  • The Baths – One of the most famous sights to see in the BVI. Huge boulders stick up out of the water, making a natural maze. You’re rewarded with a couple of nice beaches, a bar, and great snorkeling.
  • Bitter End Yacht Club – The place to see or be seen in the BVI. Very yachty, it offers a lot of amenities. We rent Hobie cats here and go sailing around North Sound for fun.
  • Saba Rock – A very nice bar and restaurant perched atop a very small rock off to the side of North Sound. They have a webcam.
  • Leverick Bay – If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the Bitter End side of North Sound, you can check out the Pusser’s Store (sorry no bar for painkillers or to get your passport stamped). There are a couple of bars to choose from, and a live music venue. They have a webcam.
  • Sandbox bar on Prickly Pear Island - Our favorite place to beach the Hobie Cat and head to the bar for a mudslide.

 

Anegada – Means “drowned island” in Spanish. It’s a decent daysail across to the only coral island in the BVI chain. As a result, it’s so flat that the only thing you see for miles are palm trees and the occasional roof. It’s well worth the trip, but be careful. It’s very shallow, so make sure you follow the buoys marking the channel and mooring field. Luckily, the sandy bottom is easy to get off if needed. A lot of people run aground there, so just be careful. They have a webcam. There are some very entertaining videos on YouTube that feature people attempting to anchor in the mooring field.

  • Neptune’s Treasure – A nice bar and restaurant with some of the coolest murals painted on the doors that I’ve ever seen. It has a very paradise posh feel, and is also where you pay your mooring fees.
  • Potter’s by the Sea – A very cool place to have a drink. We recommend the lobster dinner. You can walk out the dock and peer down into the lobster traps in anticipation. It’s really cool to read all of the stuff people have written, drawn and stapled to the ceiling. We left our mark, leave yours too.

 

Jost Van Dyke – A very cool island with lots to do. Get there early, as the mooring balls get grabbed up fast in the four main mooring fields.  Probably my favorite island on the itinerary.

  • Bubbly Pool – A neat little lagoon where the waves crash through a slot in the rocks and it gets all fizzy on your bum.
  • Sandy Spit – a nice little beach with some shrubbery and a line of palm tree. It’s very exciting to ride the waves up onto the beach in your dinghy, get out and get your outboard’s shaft up before you get smacked by the next wave.
  • Foxy’s – the quintessential and world famous beach bar. A bit big, but they have a great gift shop. Celebrities show up there all the time. Make sure to check out the boat they’re building out back to preserve their heritage. Watch out for the amorous mule lurking on the premises. They have a webcam.
  • Corsairs – A biker-pirate bar right on the strand. Run by Vinnie, a sarcastic guy who obviously checked out years ago. He tools around in an old jeep and tells you to help yourself if he has to go run an errand.  I loved the place so much, I asked Vinnie if he ever sells to give me a call.  Seriously…
  • Soggy Dollar Bar – Another famous beach bar, with a more upscale feel. The gift shop is nice. Basically, another place to wet your whistle. They have a webcam.

 

Sandy Cay – the island featured in the opening scene of Gilligan’s Island. Strolling along the beach, hiking through the vegetation and snorkeling are the primary activities.

 

Marina Cay – Home of Happy Argh and the third Pusser’s Company Store to get your passport stamped. There’s a really pretty shallow lagoon to snorkel in and both bars have a great view. There’s some history to check out while you’re there. You can get your picture taken every thirty seconds out on the fuel dock and retrieve it online when you get home via the timestamp. They have a webcam.

 

What to Take

  • Sunblock – You’ll want to have lots of sunblock, especially if you don’t have a good base tan (not just hitting the tanning salon the week before the trip). Make sure to check it, as you won’t be able to carry it on if it’s in more than 3oz bottles.
  • Clothes – Bring enough t-shirts and swim suits for the week. There’s not much opportunity to do laundry on the boat. You’ll buy t-shirts while you’re down there, so that may reduce your packing (at least on the way there). The dress down there is very casual. If you want to dress up for dinner at Bitter End, that’s an option, but not required.
  • Luggage – Leave room for t-shirts, rum, painkiller mugs, etc.
  • Sailing Skills – Anyone who can safely handle a thirty something foot sailboat can charter in the BVI. If you’re used to smaller boats, then the boat systems on the charter boat will be something you’ll want to familiarize yourself with during the orientation. Also, the view over a larger boat takes some getting used to, as well as the momentum. If you’re only bringing one sailor, then it might get tiring to be at the helm all day, every day, but that might be fine too.

Weather

  • Wind – The wind blows about 20 knots all day long, every day. There will be some lulls if a front moves through, and the Christmas Winds can pick up predictably in December. Check your forecast while you still have internet connectivity. It may take several days for cyclonic activity to spin up from just north of the equator and get to the BVI, but the weather may deteriorate days before the center of the storm gets there.
  • Waves – Inside the Drake Channel, the waves get broken up a bit because of the surrounding islands. They still have several miles of fetch between Virgin Gorda and the West end of Tortola. Outside the chain, between Prickly Island and Anegada, the nearest windbreak to the East is Africa, so things can get a bit bigger out there and along the North side of Tortola. If the forecast calls for anything larger than eight feet, I’d seriously rethink going to Anegada. You can get weather by calling into your charter base via cell phone or VHF (if you’re close enough).
  • Sun – Overexposure to sun can ruin your whole trip. Don’t try to get a jump start on that tan by running around half naked. Tropical sun burns go deep and can result in second or even third-degree burns.

Safety

  • Exposure – Wind and sun can also have a similar effect to consuming alcohol. It can impair your judgment, so please be careful after a long day of sailing.
  • Drinking – There are opportunities to drink just about everywhere you look in the BVI. If you’re the skipper of the charter boat, you’re legally responsible for everyone on the boat. If you allow yourself to get impaired, you’re risking ruining your life. It’s difficult enough to crawl in or out of the dinghy, or sail a large boat that is new to you, so don’t make matters worse by stacking the odds against you. Similarly, your crew needs to remain functional so they don’t get hurt and cause a liability issue that can ruin everyone’s trip. I saw a drunk women fall through an open hatch on her first night, which ruined her whole trip.
  • Crew – Relationships can be severely tested while on a boat for a week to ten days. Aspects of people’s personalities that you never noticed ashore will drive you insane after a week. Lack of privacy, hygiene options, and elbow room can all conspire to push you right to the edge. In order to survive, you must decide that certain things don’t matter, and it’s only for a short while. Invite your crew to think about how their behavior affects others. Share in the various jobs that need to be done while aboard. Keep things on board nice and tidy (ship-shape).  There will inevitably be someone who thinks they should be waited on because they’re on vacation.  Those people should take a cruise.  On a bareboat charter, it’s a team effort.  Dictators and democracies don’t work well on boats. You need to find a sweet spot in the middle. Find out what people expect and “try” to meet it, but don’t promise it. You have to be relatively flexible on a sailboat. It may take you much longer to get somewhere or do something than you expect. If you overbook yourself, you’ll end up being disappointed. Build in some flex time to just chill out, so your vacation isn’t a constant rush and you end up getting back on the plane exhausted.  You’ll need a vacation to recover from your vacation.  Also, a charter vacation is not the time to quit smoking or drinking, as it will inevitably make the person more irritable.

 

Conclusion – Many people walk away from a week in the BVI saying it was the best vacation they’ve ever had. It’s very beautiful and readily accessible for people with a wide range of sailing experience. Done properly, it can safe, fun, and you’ll come home with a tan and lots of souvenirs. It can be done by a whole family, or just a couple. Many people use the BVI as their destination for weddings, family reunions, get-togethers with friends, or just a romantic get-away for a couple.

 

Stay tuned.  In our next installment, now that you know what the BVI has to offer, is how to figure out your itinerary with so many great things to see and do.  After that, how I grab a mooring ball and tie the boat up for the night.

Captain Chris Larsen

How to Rig Your Windex

A few years ago, I cracked open my monthly American Sailing Association Instructor Newsletter and saw a great article about how to rig your Windex.  I was immediately struck by the fact that most people look at rigging their Windex in a completely one-sided way.  The common viewpoint on Windex setup is to demystify the ability of a sailboat to go upwind, but having taught on San Francisco Bay in a 21′ sailboat, I felt that stressing safety might be considerably more important.  The standard setup is that regardless of the angle, the arms/tabs are aft of the masthead to make them more visible from the cockpit.

Commonly a Windex is rigged with the two arms/tabs arranged pointing forward and they’re 90° to each other.  This is a great visual for the “No Go Zone”, the sectors 45° on each side of the wind that a sailboat can’t sail up into.  It’s where the sail stalls and shows the standard 90° tacking angle.  For beginning sailors, this is an important visual reference for sailing the boat properly upwind, knowing when you’re pinching too high, and when you can stop your turn after the tack.  It’s a great way for students to reinforce the wind direction they’re feeling with a way to quantify that with the handy dandy instrument at the top of the mast.  If your Windex is setup this way, then the wind vane’s tail feathers will be inside the arms of the “No Go Zone” angle when you point too high.  So, in the image shown above, the arms are 90° apart and the arrowhead is pointing into the apparent wind, meaning the boat would be going directly upwind.

It’s also very common for that angle to not be at 90°.  Whether it was installed improperly, got tweaked while trailering the boat, or a seagull has decided to adjust it for you, they’re often not quite right for whatever reason.  I often jokingly tell students that most boats tack at 90° and if you spend a million dollars on your boat, you can get that down to 80° or less, but the standard textbook answer is about 90°.

When I finished that article, I thought it was a great discussion about upwind performance, but what about safety?  When I teach, I have the following hierarchy of imperatives:  Be Safe, Have Fun, Learn to Sail.  Without being safe, you can’t have fun, and without having fun, what’s the point of taking a sailing class?  With safety being the top priority, what’s the largest source of potential danger on a sailboat?  An accidental jibe (aka crash jibe).

The Windex can alternatively be setup as a visual indicator of what we call the “Caution Zone”.  Notice we’re not going with “Danger Zone” here.  Accidental jibing is definitely a potential hazard to be aware of, but obviously we don’t want to scare the students off in a Sailing 101 type course.  The “Caution Zone” is approximately a 60° arc directly downwind where the wind can sneak around the back side of the sail and cause you to accidentally crash jibe, especially if you’re going over any substantial waves that drastically affect the angle of attack.  In this case, with the arms aft, the “arrowhead” of your wind vane will be inside the arms of the Windex as it point into the apparent wind coming from behind the boat.

I think this is an important option to consider when rigging your Windex.  In all fairness, another very powerful visual indicator that you’ve entered the “Caution Zone” is that the jib dips or “winks” because it’s being shadowed by the mainsail.  However, if you’re on a boat without a jib, there would be no indicator, so the Windex would be even more important.

Regardless of how you setup your Windex, I think it’s important to know your options.  I always like to know the “Why” behind everything we do on sailboats.

Captain Chris Larsen

 

 

Adjustable Backstay/Running Backs out of AmSteel

Over the years, I’ve made a lot of standing and running rigging for Transpac racers.  From sleek little rocket sleds to boats you might expect to see a family cruising the San Juans on, they usually invest in new rigging for the rigors of the 2,200 mile trip from LA to Diamond Head.  A lot of the boats that do this kind of long-distance, open ocean racing have adjustable backstays and/or running backstays.  This allows the sailor to put more or less tension on the mast to affect the shape of the mainsail and jib, support the mast bend, reduce pumping, etc.  In the old days, these might have been made from 7×19 wire rope since they often have to bend over some kind of block.  As that wire gets older, the strands break, making nasty little barbs that will tear through anything they encounter (e.g. sails, lines, fingers, etc.).  Now, we have the benefit of high tech fiber rigging like AmSteel and its numerous 12 strand single braid brethren.  This is in essence an economical way to build PBO rigging yourself.

Some additional benefits of using fiber vs. wire are factors like fatigue (a material’s tendency to get more brittle after it has been bent), weight aloft which reduces the keel’s effectiveness, not to mention the ability for the sailor to splice a new one while underway instead of carrying swaging equipment.

AmSteel has some UV resistance from the colored coating it comes from the factory with, but Spectra has very little unless you coat it with MaxiJacket or some product like that.  There is a product called VPE – Vectran with a Polyethylene coating (basically heat shrink) that is very popular for making running backs.  The coating is there to protect the Vectran fibers from UV damage.  You can make your own VPE from AmSteel and heat shrink tubing if needed.  Here is the procedure for making your own adjustable backstay bridle or running backs.  These are just a length of AmSteel with an eye spliced onto a heavy duty stainless steel thimble on both ends and the whole thing is covered in heat shrink.

We highly recommend being very proficient with the regular AmSteel splices (e.g. Brummel Lock and Modified Brummel Lock) before attempting this procedure.  It is considerably more difficult to build the second end with the first eye and the heat shrink complicating matters.  We also recommend practicing rolling an eye splice onto a thimble to get the knack for sizing the eye to the thimble and getting the splice onto the thimble.

We’re going to focus on just doing one end first.  We’ll deal with the second end later in the procedure.  Do not jump ahead and do anything to the second end until directed.  We’re also going to leave the AmSteel long before determining where the finished length cut will be because we have to determine the shrinkage factor of the splices.  If you’re not splicing off the spool, cut your AmSteel about five feet longer than your finished length.  It may seem a bit wasteful, but it’s a cheap insurance policy to make sure your finished product is right.  Plus, you can always use a piece of AmSteel for something.

  • Make a reference mark on the AmSteel 4′ from the end.  This will be used later to determine the amount of shrinkage the splice takes up.

 

  • Make your marks for the tail bury and eye size for the appropriately sized heavy duty, stainless steel thimble.  Record your tail bury length for future reference (example:  9″).  Measure from your reference mark to the end of the eye, where it bends around the thimble.  This will be your reference measurement (example:  2′ 10″).

 

 

  • Add heat shrink to just the section that will create the eye around the thimble.

 

 

  • Lock stitch the taper, do not whip the eye as in the regular procedure.

 

  • Measure the new distance from your reference mark to the end of the eye (example:  2′ 8″).  The difference between the two measurements (example:  2″) is the amount of shrinkage you have to add to the other end for the second splice.
  • When determining the finished length, make sure to account for how much it will stretch while under load.  AmSteel is rated for 0.46% stretch at 10% of it’s breaking strength, so for a 30′ running back, here’s the calculation:

30′ x 12″ = 360″ x 0.46% = 1-5/8″ stretch

 

  • From the end of the eye, measure your nominal finished length (example:  30′), add one half of the eye size (example:  if thimble is 5″ around, add 2-1/2″), add the length of the tail bury (example:  9″) then subtract for the stretch factor (example:  -1-5/8″).

Finished length + 1/2 thimble + tail bury – shrinkage

30′ + 2-1/2″ + 9″ -1-5/8″ = 30′ 9-7/8″

  • Make your cut there.  Measure back 9″ and make a mark, bend the AmSteel around  your thimble on and make the second mark.

 

  • Cover the section between the marks of the second eye with heat shrink as before.

 

  • You should have 5 pieces of heat shrink on hand.  First is one long piece that’s a close fit to the original rope diameter and approximately the finished length of your line.  Sometimes this long piece is made up of more than one section to enable you to slide the heat shrink around to finish the splice on the second end and get complete heat shrink coverage of the entire piece.  In addition to the small diameter long piece(s), you should have a medium diameter piece that transitions and covers the splice tapers and overlaps the small diameter piece by at least a foot.  Third is a large diameter piece that covers the base of the thimble and overlaps the medium piece by a few inches.  Slide all the heat shrink onto the line.  You may need to figure out some way to fish the AmSteel down the long length(s) of the small diameter heat shrink.  I’ve even resorted to running a string down through the heat shrink and using that to pull the tapered end of AmSteel.

 

 

 

 

  • After all the heat shrink necessary to cover the entire line has been slipped over the AmSteel, scrunch the small diameter heat shrink far enough away from the second end to give you access to enough AmSteel for the second splice.  You will probably need to pin the heat shrink back to do the splice, but make sure not to damage the heat shrink.

 

 

 

  • The second eye will be the standard Brummel Lock because you can’t slide the first eye with the thimble through the second end.  Make sure to build the eye the exact right size to roll onto the thimble.  Too loose and the thimble won’t be captured, too tight and you won’t be able to get the thimble into the eye.

NOTE:  Do not perform the bury part of the splice.  If the finished eye is not the right size, you’ll be able to more easily redo the splice.  Make sure you can roll the eye tightly over the thimble before burying the taper.  Also, the Brummel lock is also considerably more difficult to do with the heat shrink over the eye.  Make sure you dramatically enlarge the inverted part of the splice to wrestle the eye through.  Be careful not to damage the heat shrink during the splicing process.

 

 

 

 

  • Now, roll your spliced eye onto the thimble.  It should be relatively difficult for a proper fit.  Place the pointy end of the thimble into the crotch of the splice, then roll one side of the eye into the channel on the thimble.  You should be able to just stretch and roll the eye over the end of the thimble so that it pops into place.  Laying the assembly flat onto the work surface and massaging the roll into place with the heel of your palm sometimes helps.

 

 

  • Perform the taper and bury part of the splice once you’re happy with the fit of the eye over the thimble.

 

  • Lock stitch the buried taper.

 

  • Load up the assembly to take out the stretch from the factory by using a block and tackle system or a winch mounted on the bench or a come-along.  Let sit overnight.

 

 

 

  • The next day, slide the medium and large heat shrink out of the way so you can get to the center of the small heat shrink.  While the line is still loaded, starting from the center of the assembly, use a heat gun on the heat shrink and work your way to either end, but stop before you heat the medium heat shrink.  Slide the medium and large heat shrink out of the way so you can heat up the ends of the small heat shrink near the buried tapers.  NOTE:  You should be able to see the weave of the AmSteel through the heat shrink but do not melt the heat shrink.

 

 

  • Once the small diameter heat shrink is completely shrunk, slide the medium sized heat shrink up over the tapered bury and butt it up against the thimble.  Heat shrink that into place.  It should cover the small heat shrink by several inches.

 

  • Once the medium heat shrink is in place, slide the large diameter heat shrink up over the base of the thimble and shrink it.  It should cover the medium sized heat shrink enough for a good bond.

 

 

  • OPTIONAL:  Some people use the “cone” of large diameter heat shrink on the inside of the thimble as a form to pour a small amount of 5 minute epoxy into.  This nominally keeps water out of the splice and supports the thimble when the line is loaded.

 

NOTE:  When taking the load off the assembled line and transporting it out to the boat, do not bend or coil the line any more than absolutely necessary.  This will relax the fibers and cause the line to draw back up, undoing the effect of loading it up overnight and possibly making it more difficult to install.

Congratulations!  You’re done.  Now you’re ready to install it onto the boat.  Remember that since you accounted for the stretch, it might be a tight fit.  Please feel free to post comments and/or questions.

Captain Chris Larsen

Tacking Angles

When you’re on a sailboat delivery, there are long stretches where the crew has plenty of time to discuss all kinds of stuff.  Once, on the way up the West Coast, we were talking about developing an app to calculate tacking angles underway.  This involves the angle that the individual boat can tack through the wind (around 90°, but each boat is different) and the direction the apparent wind is coming from with respect to the intended course.

The simplest scenario is to assume the boat tacks 90° through the wind and that the wind is coming directly down the course, so you’re trying to make progress directly upwind.  For the purposes of the spreadsheet below, that means the Wind Angle = 0°.  If we use 1 nautical mile as the unit of measurement to step out the course, that means that you have to sail 0.71 nm on one tack, then 0.71 nm on the other tack, or a total distance of 1.41 nm to accomplish a Distance Made Good (DMG), or progress toward the destination, of 0.87 nm.  At a boat speed of 6 knots, that means 7.1 minutes on each tack, so 14.2 min to make up that 0.87 nm.  This makes the velocity made good (VMG), or speed toward the goal, 3.7 knots (nautical miles per hour).

To illustrate how the Wind Angle factors into the equation, if the apparent wind is at 45° to the course and your boat tacks 90° through the wind, then you can stay close-hauled directly to the destination.  This means you don’t need to tack and can sail 0.71 nm for a DMG of 7.1 nm at 6 knots in 7.1 min.

Wind Angle Tack 1 Tack 2 DMG Tot Dist Speed Time 1 Time 2 Total
0 90 0.71 0.71 0.87 1.41 6 7.1 7.1 14.1
45 90 0.00 0.71 0.71 0.71 6 0.0 7.1 7.1

 

To put the boat tacking angle into perspective, if boat A can tack 85° through the wind and boat B tacks 90°, boat A points much higher and will have to sail 0.5 nm less and arrive at the destination 30 seconds sooner.  That’s a huge advantage, which is why there are so many tweaks to a boat to make it point better.

The spreadsheet below will calculate the above scenarios.  In addition, it factors in several other tacking angles in 5° increments.  The inputs are Wind and Speed.  All of the other fields are calculated.

Click here for the Tacking Angle Calculator Spreadsheet.

I never actually got around to making this an app, but the spreadsheet was an interesting exercise in geometery.  It could easily be written as a script embedded in a website page that could be accessed with a smartphone.  And this is a PHP site.  Hmmm…

Captain Chris Larsen

 

 

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Cool Tools

There are a few tools that I keep in my little duffle bag that I take down to the docks with me to make my life easier.  You may or may not have seen these or even know they exist.  Here’s a few of them.  Please note that I’m not endorsing any of the websites listed below (except Go2Marine.com of course), I just wanted to give you a jump start on where to pick them up if you felt so inclined.

Greenlee Drill/Tap Bit Set

When you’re installing hardware up the mast while hanging in a bosun’s chair, the last thing you need to be doing is drilling a hole then manually trying to align the tap square to the mast and doing the tap dance.  These bits ingeniously drill the correct sized pilot hole and then immediately tap the hole for you.  I infinitely prefer tapping holes for hardware rather than riveting them and this makes the job considerably easier.

DRILL/TAP KIT

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Felco Wire Cutters

We splice a lot of AmSteel, I mean a lot.  When doing your taper and you’ve got your 12 strands all splayed out on the table, these guys nip right through ‘em.  One word of caution though, the nut on the side of the nippers has to be the exact right tightness otherwise either it won’t cut those tough little fibers or it won’t move at all.  Also, they come packaged with a lot of oil on them to keep the steel from rusting.  With that being said though, these little nippers will help you blaze through your Dyneema splices like a pro.

Picture of  F-C7

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Leatherman Wingman

Forget American Express, don’t leave home without your Leatherman Wingman.  Over the years, I’ve used just about every multi-tool out there.  The marine environment is very harsh on these little guys.  Any corrosion and either they won’t fold properly or the blades don’t swing out, etc.  I’ve had my Wingman for a few years now and there’s not a speck of rust on it.  One of the main things I like about this little guy is that the pliers are sprung open.  There’s nothing worse while hanging from a bosun’s chair and have to use both hands to open your pliers for every crimp connection you do for installing that masthead light.

Wingman®

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Crescent Multi-Bit Screwdriver

The reason I love this particular screwdriver is that it has a triangular handle.  What?  Have you ever tried to crank down on something with a round handled screwdriver and the grip rotates in your hand before it transfers the torque to the intended recipient?  Not with this little guy.  I’ll strip the phillips head out of a stainless steel machine screw before my grip slips.  I will tell you that the bits are prone to corroding in a marine environment, but it’s easy to take precautions to alleviate that little problem.

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Crescent Sliding Adjustable Wrench

Tired of rolling your thumb on that silly little screw to open and close your adjustable wrench?  This sweet little wrench has a super-easy sliding mechanism that can go from all the way open to all the way closed in less than a second.  Easy-peasy…

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Piezo Electric Ignition MAP Gas/Propane Torch

What do you do if that old nut won’t come off while you’re trying to install that sweet new furling unit you got at the boat show?  Your adjustable wrench is just rounding over the nut and you’ve birdcaged your old forestay.  Gotta torch it!  Nothing’s more masculine than a blowtorch.  To make taking it up a notch that much easier, get one that has a piezo electric ignition.  You’ve got one on the grill at home, might as well follow suit out on the dock…

 

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Harken 75mm Carbo Ratcheting Blocks w/ and w/o Becket #2670 & 2671

Watching a young rigger climb a mast like a monkey can be quite entertaining, but what if want to go up your own mast and you’re not quite as spry as you once were?  It’s also not easy as you would think to find someone that will crank you up the mast with a 12″ winch handle.  The answer is “purchase” or mechanical advantage.  With a set of these blocks, you only have to pull 25% of your weight to become self-sufficient.  To minimize the strain while you’re switching your grip, turn the ratchet on and take a rest.  It will securely hold you with minimal effort while you take your time ascending.  Make sure to turn the ratchet off so you can come back down.  These single blocks can bolt together with nylon lock nuts to get that 4:1.  Remember, the drawback to a 4:1 purchase is that you’ll need to buy 4x your mast height in line.  The good news is that you’ll recoup that the first time you don’t have to hire a rigger.

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Marlow Splicing Needles

Did I mention we splice a lot of AmSteel?  These guys make the job much easier.  The small needle is for anything less than 1/4″ and the big guy is for 1/4″ and up.  They’re very well made and beat the heck out of fashioning one from seizing wire.

Marlow Riggers Splicing Needles

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Brion Toss’ Point Hudson PHid (fid)

If we’re not splicing AmSteel, we’re probably splicing three strand.  These PHids are considerably better than any other fid on the market.  Most fids are too pointy and pierce the strands.  These are nice and blunt, so you can dig between the strands.  They’re extremely well made.  They come in two sizes and make building your own dock lines a snap.

 

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That’s enough for today.  Feel free to post any questions and/or comments and make sure to tell us about your cool tool suggestions.

Captain Chris Larsen

Learning Curves

Many years before I became a “Certified Rigging Specialist”, I was a “professional” rigger, meaning that people actually paid me to do splicing for them.  My first “job” was to do all of the splicing for Austin Yacht Club on Lake Travis, smack dab in the middle of Texas.  My “shop” consisted of my living room and my coffee table and I had to tie the rope to my doorknob to pull the splices together.  I taught myself how to splice after a hours of research on the internet.  The procedure I used to do my first “successful” splices left my hands bloody and if there was a shackle involved, actually risked breaking bones in my hand.  It was a pretty rough way to earn a few extra bucks doing something I supposedly loved.

Fast forward a few years and I took an after hours splicing class at a local chandlery in California.  We spent an hour on three strand and an hour on double braid.  It was SO much easier than the way I’d been doing it, and it was actually fun.  No blood, no bruises, contusions or lacerations.  I’m hooked!  Why wasn’t this procedure somewhere on the internet?  One of the sites I had visited was for Boy Scouts.  If a 200 pound guy was having trouble pulling his splices together, what was a 100 pound kid supposed to do?

Fast forward another couple of years and I heard through the grapevine that there was an opening in the rig shop department of that chandlery.  I would potentially be working for the guy who had taught me that splicing class.  I immediately submitted my resume and bugged the rig shop manager constantly about hiring me since I was in the chandlery all the time as a customer anyway.  He eventually acquiesced and I started as the newbie in the rig shop.  This is basically the modern day equivalent of  being an apprentice.  You can’t really do any of the fun stuff  because you haven’t had time to learn or practice it yet.  It’s the classic conundrum, you don’t get to do any orders because you don’t have any experience and you can’t get experience because you’re not allowed to do any of the orders.  That’s when the now infamous Lake Tahoe order came in.  I’ve referenced this event numerous times because it was a pivotal point in my rigging career.  Because the shop couldn’t afford to not have me working on that many splices (300 mooring pennants times two splices each), I was quickly thrust into the role of double braid eye splice specialist.  My manager inspected the first few dozen splices and after that I was good to go.

Keep in mind that if you have that many splices to do, you want to do them in the most efficient way possible without sacrificing quality.  This is how we hammered out the procedure that I still use to this day and have documented in the How-To:  Splicing category.  It is in every way faster and easier than any other splicing procedure out there on the internet.  Now you may reasonably suspect that there must be a trade-off if it’s an order of magnitude easier to follow than all of the other procedures, but my splices have been sent off and tested by two major rope manufacturers and they’ve all passed with flying colors.  Slight disclaimer:  the splicing procedure(s) that I use are not necessarily the exact step-by-step in those manufacturers splicing handbooks, but the proof is definitely in the pudding as they’ve all been tested to well over 100% of the breaking strength of the respective line.

So after the dust settled and the Lake Tahoe order had shipped, it was time for me to do my certification splices.  I obviously felt pretty good about my Class I double braid splice, but there were 11 other splices I had to do perfectly times 3 slings each times two splices per sling.  This was a pretty daunting task and took me probably almost 40 hours to accomplish over the next few weeks.  If one can stop being self-absorbed enough from the task of learning and doing all of those splices, one would realize that this is a pretty hefty investment by the rig shop in the newbie.  Years later I became the manager of a rig shop and it was my turn to train the newbies and invest in them so they could return that investment many times over.

To me, the secret to being a good teacher is to always keep in mind what it feels like to not know what you’re trying to teach.  Each splice is mystifying when it’s first shown to you.  Your brain gets overloaded with this new information and each splice has its own frustrating steps.  The friction that will eventually hold the splice together fights you tooth and nail while you’re building the splice.  Each finished splice is a small yet satisfying victory.  Also, the art and science of splicing harkens back to the sailors of a bygone era.  I thrive on these old-school skills, which is why I also taught myself celestial navigation.  In addition to teaching my guys how to do all of these splices, we also often do splicing classes for customers during the off-season.  It’s very gratifying to see people’s eyes light up when they get it.  Their splices have gone from a mess of fibers splayed out  on the bench to an actual recognizable eye.

I am often asked by the folks higher up in the corporate ladder why on earth would we teach customers for free how to do something that we charge for.  My answer is always the same and is easy because it’s true.  For every person that takes the splicing class and gets it and is now free to go off and splice their own dock lines, there are nine folks that walk out of the class and tell me “Now I know why I pay you to do this for me.”  They’re very happy to let us do their splicing for them, saving them hours of frustration and biffed splices.

When I teach the double braid splice, the very first thing I tell everyone is to not jump ahead of the demonstration.  Some people think they know the next step and they invariably snip off something they’re going to need in a few minutes and I have to give them the “I told you so” eyebrow look.  But the best part of the class is when we finish building the splice and I get to say “This is when the magic happens.”  This is the step when you actually pull the splice together.  We’ve all heard the adage “You can’t push a rope”, but when you pull the double braid splice together that’s precisely what you’re doing.  In effect, you’re pushing the rope down inside of itself.  It’s actually very non-intuitive.  I still get a tiny thrill to this day every time I pull a double braid splice together.

Anyway, my certification splices all came back stamped “PASS” with a little certificate from the factory, which was pretty cool.  We hung it up on the wall in the rig shop to assure the customers that they were in good hands.  Years later, I started doing all of the splicing for another company that bought their rope from another manufacturer.  So guess what?  I had to do another whole set of certification splices for them.  When I did the first set, I was just a newbie, so there was a reasonable expectation that I would pass.  This time, I was actually hired as a rigger so the expectation was that of course I’d pass this round, so the pressure was enormous.  To make matters worse, it takes weeks for the results to come back.  To make things even more interesting, the new manufacturer had their own procedures for splicing their rope, so I had to swallow my pride and set aside the methods that I’d been using for years and really focus on doing things their way.  When they tear your slings apart, they do a post-mortem on them and if your marks aren’t in the right places, you fail.  It was once again time to feel that frustration of being the newbie, even if it was self-inflicted.

Now I’m starting a new journey.  My background has always been in recreational sailing splices.  Now I’m working for a company that also does a ton of splicing for commercial fisherman.  Where I was once doing splices on teeny tiny ropes for racers, I’m now doing splices on gigantic lines.  I remember the first time I spliced 1-1/4″ Duralon, it was by far the largest line I’d ever spliced.  It was like wrestling an anaconda.  It even required a new style of fid that I had to learn how to use because when you get up to line of that size, the fid would be the size of an aluminum baseball bat.

Anyway, the morale of this story, if there is one, is that whether you’re learning the three strand splice for the first time, or you’ve been a professional rigger for 10 years and now you’re learning how to splice gigantic polypropylene for commercial fisherman, there’s always something new to learn and there’s always an opportunity to feel like like a newbie again.  Enjoy that feeling because it means you’re alive and moving forward, regardless of where you are on the learning curve.

Captain Chris Larsen

 

Zen and the Art of Splicing

Splicing is what they call a perishable skill.  Use it or lose it.  I remember thinking that after doing those 600 splices for the Lake Tahoe order, I would never forget how to do a Class I double braid splice.  After taking a few of life’s turns, I found myself writing software for a few years, then getting back into the rigging game.  I remember sitting there staring at that nylon dock line second guessing myself on that first splice.  Was it two short fids and one long fid or vice versa?  Anyway, I quickly got my groove back and the rest is history.

Learning these splices is definitely a challenge in and of itself.  When doing a standard splice, you’re usually building the splice on the tail of the spool, meaning the only pressure to do the splice right is the loss of a few minutes of billable time and a few feet of rope.  The real pressure comes when it’s time to cut the splice off the spool.  If the line that was built only has a splice on one end, you just throw it on the bench, measure, cut and whip the end.  But what if there’s supposed to be a splice on the other end?

Cutting the other end is one of the scariest things a rigger does in the shop (not counting climbing masts and stuff down on the docks).  If you biff the location of the cut, you’ve not only wasted the time and rope in the splice, but you’ve generated a possibly unsaleable remnant in the process.  In order to figure out where to make the cut, you have to take the finished length of the final desired product, and reverse engineer the rope needed to build the splice.  This has to include “shrinkage”, the amount rope contracts inside the splice because it’s now two rope diameters thick at the base of the splice and tapers down to one rope diameter.  The only way to determine that is to measure how much the first splice contracted while you built it.  That means establishing a reference point somewhere on the standing part, then after the splice is done you measure the new distance to the reference point and subtract the “knowns”, the length of the tail, the length in the eye, etc.  There will always be a few inch difference, and that is your “shrinkage”.

When you build the splices that you send off to the factory for testing and hopeful certification, you have to build a bunch of “slings” out of all their different types of rope (e.g. three strand, double braid, single braid, high tech core, polypropylene, etc.).  These slings are made to exact specifications because they have to put them on their machine that pulls them apart and measures how hard it had to pull.  This is how they test the strength of your eye splices.  This is measured against the published breaking strength of the rope.  To have your splices pass, your slings must be at least 100% of the breaking strength of the rope.  They can even go as high as 113%, which is pretty cool if you think about it.  Anyway, the real pressure when building your certification slings is to properly create a finished product that’s exactly the right length with exactly the right sized eyes.  Then you get to wait weeks while they put your slings in the queue to be tested and then get back to your (or your boss) with the results.

So here you are with your spliced line, run out on the bench, still attached to the spool.  This is the epitome of the measure twice, cut once philosophy.  You’ve made your measurements, reverse engineered your splice and accounted for shrinkage.  The only way to move forward with the order is to make the leap of faith that you’ve done it correctly and you make the cut.  The only way to know if you’ve done it correctly is to go ahead and build the second splice.  Keep in mind that during those few minutes that you’re doing the splice, the suspense is killing you.  You can almost hear the dramatic music in the background as you lay the finished product on the test bench tape measure.  If you’ve done it right, you should be reasonably close, plus or minus a tug on the rope for a little stretch factor.

Take all of that into account, now add to it the fact that I’ve never actually been able to quantify a certain aspect of splicing.  The shrinkage is pretty standard, you add 5″ for 3/4″ line and away you go.  The thing that still boggles my mind is the relative location of the marks you make on the core.  The marks are a standard part of the splicing procedure.  However, when it comes time to cut the core off right before you pull the splice together, the location you make your cut never seems to have any relationship to the standardized marks you’ve made previously on the core to build the splice.  On those 600 splices I made for the Lake Tahoe order, that all came out exactly the same every time, every single time I lopped the core off, it was in a different spot on the core with respect to the marks.  I guess this is what they call Chaos Theory and why splicing will never get boring for me.  There’s always new stuff to learn.

 

Captain Chris Larsen

So Many Splices, So Little Time…

It struck me as I’ve been writing up all of these articles on how to do all of these splices that even though they all take up the same amount of brain cells, I don’t do them all with the same frequency.  I decided to jot down all of the splices that we offer and rank them via the percentage of how often we have to crank them out.  It becomes quickly obvious that 75% of our splices we do are just four different procedures.  Take a look at the spreadsheet below and keep in mind that even if we only use a splice 1% of the time, we still offer it and we have to train newbies on it eventually.  Obviously, we focus on our bread and butter splices and we get really good at them very quickly due to demand.

My first order when I first started in a rig shop in California was to make all 300 mooring pennants for Lake Tahoe.  That’s 600 Class I double braid  splices onto 600 thimbles, with 600 whips.  I got really good at that splice really fast.  The mooring pennants came in three different lengths, 15′, 20′, and 25′.  We had a joke in the rig shop, especially for the new guys, to make the long pennants first because if you biffed the second splice, you could always make a shorter pennant from the remnant.  The reason why the second splice was so critical was that the first splice was done off the spool.  If you biffed that one, then you could just cut it off and write off those few feet.

Splice %
3 Strand Eye 20
Double Braid 20
Amsteel 20
Rope to Chain 15
Hi Tech Double Braid 8.5
Flemish/Reaving Eye 8.5
Quicksplice 3
Stripped Halyard 3
End for End 1
VPE 0.5
Wire to Rope 0.5

Now let’s talk about the splices we don’t do.  I had a guy come in who worked for NOAA who wanted to suspend some heavy duty depth-sounding equipment from a tripod made out of AmSteel.  Now I’d been working in a rig shop for a few years at this point, and I was pretty sure that ropes usually have two ends.  I was a bit flummoxed as to how I was supposed to make a splice with three ends.  So I ran over to a 7-Eleven, grabbed the largest Coke Slurpee they offered, and once I got over the massive brain-freeze, started to splice.  This is what I came up with:

I spliced a tapered end of AmSteel into another piece so that the taper resided in the eye of the other splice.  Does that make sense?  I determined what part of the second line would be the eye and spliced the first piece into that.  Then when I completed a regular splice on the second piece, all three legs were locked into each other.  Whew!  Unfortunately, no good deed goes unpunished.  He was so happy with the prototype splice that he ordered six of them.  From there on out, I was given all of the “impossible” splices.  That’s just about the same time they trained me on the wire to rope splice.  UGH!

Captain Chris Larsen

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Stripping the Cover Off High-Tech Cored Halyard Instructions

This procedure is used mainly for a few specific applications:  racing sailboat mainsheet halyards that want to reduce windage and weight aloft, spinnaker sheets to reduce the amount of weight pulling the corners down in light wind, and also to replace a wire to rope halyard with a high-tech core line so that the AmSteel is of sufficiently small diameter to use the existing wire sheave at the top of the mast.

The line retains it full specified rope diameter back at the winch, where it’s critical for the jaws/self-tailer to grip, then somewhere in the middle reduces to just the diameter of the Dyneema core.  A finished halyard/sheet will potentially have a flemish/reaving eye on one end and a single braid/AmSteel splice on the end onto a shackle/snap-shackle.  Historically, these lines are made from WarpSpeed with a Dyneema core and polyester cover or other core-dependent double braids.  There are now more choices including MLX, XLS Extra T, Ultra-Lite, etc.  It is important to use a rope whose core has some UV protection, because it will now be exposed instead of living inside the cover.  If you use rope whose core has no UV resistance, you can use a product like MaxiJacket to dip the exposed core in.  MaxiJacket comes in a variety of colors to suit your application.

We’ve also had customers buy a regular polyester double braid because of more color options and remove the polyester core.  Then they select the AmSteel to run up the cover to create a custom look.  NOTE:  If you’re interested in building your own combo, run the AmSteel up the hollow polyester cover with a fid.  Don’t forget to exit the cover approximately 12″ from the end of the cover to create the extraction point.

Before beginning the procedure, determine the length of the line, including enough cover to make a flemish/reaving eye (+1′) and the single braid splice onto the shackle (+2-3′).  Also determine where the strip lands along the length of the line.  If this is a halyard, you will probably want the halyard strip location to fall just short of the masthead sheave when the sail is doused, yet also short of the winches when the mainsail is set.  This usually involves knowing the “I” dimension of the sailboat (height of mast from the deck), and the distance from the mast to the winch.  Don’t forget to adjust the location of the “strip” so that the approximately 12″ taper doesn’t interfere with the sheave.

NOTE:  If you are planning on adding a flemish eye and a shackle to the ends, make sure to do the “strip” first because it anchors the cover to the core.  Then you can address the treatment of the ends.

  • Mark the designated extraction point.

 

  • Tie a stop knot (overhand knot on the bight) approximately 4′ from the designated extraction point on the side where the line will retain it’s full diameter.

Overhand knot on the bight

 

  • Extract the core at the mark, taking care not to snag any cover strands as that will show in the finished product.  Before extraction is complete, make sure to mark the core at the extraction point.

Mark core at extraction point

 

  • Pull the core all the way out from the stripped end tape the end.

Core tail pulled out

  • Cut the hollow cover off approximately 9″ from the extraction point.  This creates the “tail” you will be burying in the core.  NOTE:  The cover of most core-dependent double braids is very attractive and can be used as lashing strap for attaching rigs to the trailer, etc.  For paying customers, we always make sure they get the “discarded” cover as part of their purchase.

 

  • Scrunch the cover back to the stop knot then milk the cover back.  This is called “pre-milking” and accurately establishes the relative location between the cover and core, removing any slack from the factory.

 

  • Starting 2 rope diameters (RDs) from the extraction point (toward the stripped end), carefully make a small pull in the set of strands that are used to weave the cover (usually made up of 3-5 strands each). Insert the small half of a pair of scissors in the pull and snip the strands.  Pull the snipped strands from the cover tail.  Make sure to not pull the strands backwards past the extraction point and affect the full rope diameter standing part towards the stop knot.  Strands only get pulled out from the tail direction.

Pull a set of strands

 

Snip a set of strands


Set of strands snipped and another pulled

  • Pull and snip every other set of strands from the tail for one third the length of the cover tail.  This creates the “pre-taper”.  Make sure to stay in the same row of strands that create the weave.

Several sets snipped in a row


     

  • When the pre-taper is done, milk the cover over the core from the stop knot and pin just short of the extraction point.

Standing part pinned at extraction point


  • Trim 80% of the cover tail ends about 2″ from the end of the cover tail.

Cover strands snipped


  • Insert the splicing needle into the core, past the length of the cover tail, slide it up through the hollow core and it exits as close to the extraction point as possible.

Splicing needle goes into core


Splicing needle exits at extraction point


  • Have a 4″ piece of tape ready.  Insert the remaining cover tail strands through the splicing needle, fold them back onto the cover tail and spiral wrap the assembly with the tape.  The tape spirals from the cover tail towards the splicing needle.


 

Cover tail spiral taped to splicing needle

 

  • Pull the cover tail down through the core.

 

  • Pull the cover tail tight and milk the core smooth.  This will create a nice cover/core joint.

Cover/core joint pinned


  • With cover/core still tight, using waxed #8 whipping twine in a complimentary color, wrap the cover joint with 3 wraps.  The whip should be centered on the cover/core joint, meaning it through the polyester on one side of the rope and the AmSteel on the other.  Pull very tight.  This will allow the strip to roll over a sheave as smoothly as possible if needed.

Cover/core joint whipped


  • Scrunch the core back and pin.

Scrunch core back to taper cover tail


  • Remove the splicing needle and fan out the cover strands.  Cut them off at an angle, which will form a taper when buried. OPTIONAL:  Coat the cover strands with beeswax.  This will help keep the buried taper in place.  NOTE:  The “pre-taper” tapers the cover tail beneath the scrunched core, so a shorter, smoother taper is made rather than only tapering the cover after it exits the scrunched core.

Cover tail tapered


  • Remove pin and milk core over tapered cover strands.

 

  • Smooth taper.  It should only be one rope diameter wide.

Smooth transition

 

 

Congratulations!  You’re done.  Please feel free to post any questions and/or comments.

Captain Chris Larsen

 

 

End for End Splicing Instructions

This splice is primarily used for Catalina and Hunter sailboats with an in-mast furling system.  This is not a 100% breaking strength splice, about 50% of the strength is sacrificed to maintain one rope diameter to go through deck hardware, but that’s okay since you should never have to haul on the furling line that hard.  If there’s a problem, look at the furling system, don’t just pull harder.  Make the line a bit too long originally in case you have to cut it off and try again.  This is usually because the tapers don’t mate smoothly on a first attempt.

Making the furling line “too long” has the additional benefit of being able to furl while staying at the helm.  On a charter boat you want to make sure the furling line can’t reach a winch drum, otherwise someone will inevitably throw it on, crank on it and break something.  Making the furling line shorter may keep things tidier in the cockpit, but there’s nothing worse than having to lean under a dodger to haul on the furling line while trying to furl when things start to get interesting.  This is one of the more challenging splices I do as a rigger, so it makes sense to practice this splice on a 10′ piece of rope before attempting it on the boat.

  • Run the line through furling system – through the rope clutches (aka jammers) and up through the corkscrew or winch on the mast, making sure the tails are long enough for good hauling, but not long enough to reach a cockpit winch after the splice is finished.  This will leave two tails in the cockpit to splice together.

 

  • Tie an overhand knot on the bight or slip knot 6’ from end to seize the cover/core temporarily (see Fig. 1). NOTE:  This knot needs to be removable after the splice.

Fig. 1

 

  • Select a fid that’s one rope diameter smaller than the line (e.g. for 3/8” line, use 5/16” fid).  Mark the tail two fid lengths from end (A)(see Fig. 2), three fid lengths from the end (B) and four fid lengths from the end (C).

Fig. 2

 

  • Extract the core at mark B (three fid lengths from the end).  There should be a mark on either side of the extraction point.

 

  • Pull the core all the way out until the cover is scrunched back to the stop knot, then milk the cover back over the core.  The ends of the cover and core may or may not line back up.  This is called “pre-milking” the cover.

 

  • Attach the fid to the cover and insert it into the cover of the opposite tail end at mark A (two-fid lengths from the end). Fid exits four rope diameters past mark C (see Fig. 3).  Pull on the core tail to make sure it wasn’t snagged by the fid.

Fig. 3

 

  • Pull the cover tails tight to create cover to cover joint (see Fig. 4).

Fig. 4

 

  • Repeat the entire process for the other end.  Milk from stop knot to create smooth cover to cover joint (see Fig. 5).

Fig. 5


  • Mark cover and core tails where they exit the standing part (see Fig. 6).

Fig. 6

  • Pull out the core tail a bit and cut it off at the mark.  Repeat for the cover tail.

 

  • Taper the core by fanning out four rope diameters of strands and cutting diagonally across the fan (see Fig. 7).

Fig. 7


  • Repeat taper for the cover tail.

 

  • Milk both sides of the splice until the buries are smooth inside the standing part.

 

  • Loosely lock stitch the cover to cover joint six inches on either side of the joint.

 

  • Repeat the entire process for the other side of splice.

 

  • Roll/massage the two splices between your hands to round it out so that it passes smoothly through the rope clutches (jammers).

 

  • Undo the stop knots.

 

  • With all of the rope clutches (jammers) open and any winches on “Free”, run the entire loop through the furling system.

 

  • The finished splice should be almost invisible with only slightly noticeable lumps where the tapers meet (mark C).  If the splice get noticeably skinny at mark C, then you might need to try again, making sure to leave the tapers a bit longer.  The butted tapers will sort of lock together inside the cover after being exposed to salt water.

 

Congratulations!  You’re done.  You should now be able to easily and safely set and douse your mainsail.  Please feel free to post any comments/questions.

Captain Chris Larsen