How to Select a Balmar Charging System


 There are numerous reasons to upgrade your charging system. Here are some common complaints:

  • I can’t keep my battery charged!
  • My current alternator does not keep up with my electrical requirements/load.
  • I don’t want to run my engine just to charge the batteries.
  • I don’t want to run my generator to charge the batteries when my engine is already running.
  • I’ve added several batteries to my house bank, but I don’t think they are being charged effectively.
  • I operate predominantly at idle speed, but my battery bank doesn’t charge at idle.
  • I keep burning out alternators and/or batteries.
  • I have two engines, but my alternators don’t work together to charge the battery bank effectively.
  • My alternator charges my house bank, but I want to charge the engine start battery too without remembering to flip a battery switch.

Balmar Charging Systems can solve all these problems and more…

Selecting a charging system upgrade for your vessel can be a confusing task, as there are many inter-related variables to consider. The following guide steps you through a logical progression of questions and choices which must be made to select the best charging system for your needs. The selection process includes the following steps:

Step 1: Determine Your Vessel’s Electrical Load
Step 2: Identify Your Existing Battery Bank Technology and Capacity
Step 3: Select Your Optimum Alternator Output

Step 4: Identify the Alternator Mounting Style Present on Your Engine
Step 5: Determine your Belt and Pulley Requirements
Step 6: Select Additional Charging System Options

These 6 important steps are fully described below – Read on!

DC Load ChartStep 1: Determine Your Vessel’s Electrical Load
Skip this step if you are confident in your house bank’s ability to service your existing vessel loads

Accurate load calculations require precise measurement of your vessel’s equipment. Refer to equipment manuals for actual load ratings or consult with a qualified marine electrician to determine your actual needs. The chart at the right provides typical DC marine loads and an example of load calculations. Use this example to configure and calculate your vessel’s electrical load. Click here to upload Balmar’s interactive Load Calculator and save it for your personal use.  You can manipulate the Load Calculator in either Microsoft Excel or Google Docs.

(Device Load x Duty Cycle) x (# of Devices) = Total Load

House battery capacity is typically derived based on the ability to meet approximately 24 hours’ worth of typical demand, but could be longer if you don’t expect to be connected to shore power for extended periods. For example, if your vessel’s typical daily electrical load is 300 Ah, then your battery bank should be sized to provide 300Ah of power storage. Since your batteries will be damaged if you discharge them beyond a 50% State of Charge (SoC%), then 600Ah of rated storage is required.

Add batteries to your bank if you need them!

Step 2: Identify Your Existing Battery Bank Technology and Capacity

Battery bank capacity has a dramatic impact on the size and type of alternator required to keep the batteries healthy. Identify your battery bank technology and capacity, then calculate an acceptance requirement.

(A) Standard and Deep Cycle Flooded Batteries can accept a charge load up to 25% of their capacity.
(B) Gel Cell Batteries can accept a charge load up to 35% of their capacity.
(C) AGM Batteries can accept a charge load up to 40% of their capacity.
(D) Lithium Batteries can accept an almost unlimited charge load.

Contact your battery manufacturer to confirm their recommended charge loads and profile.

(Battery Storage Capacity) x (Battery Charge Acceptance Rate) = Maximum Alternator Output Current

For example, a bank of 3 AGM batteries, each with an individual capacity of 100Ah provide a total capacity of 300Ah. With an AGM acceptance rate of up to 40%, a 120A charging alternator could be utilized (300 Ah * 40% = 120 Ah). If you have a really large bank or a battery technology that calls for an alternator output that exceeds available alternator technology, then it will just take longer to charge your bank. Simply choose the highest alternator power which meets your budget and pulley constraints.

Mounting StylesStep 3: Select Your Alternator Output

Now that you know the battery bank technology and charging profile, you can choose an alternator output which will optimally charge your bank. The chart at the bottom of this page shows Balmar’s most popular range of small-case, high-power alternator choices for your vessel, along with an appropriate multi-stage regulator and related temperature sensing cables. (Balmar provides a discount when you buy the package).

For 70A – 120A requirements, choose a 6-Series Alternator Package.
For 165A – 200A requirements, choose an AT-Series Alternator Package.

Step 4: Identify the Alternator Mounting Style Present on Your Engine

It is critically important to determine how your existing alternator is mounted to match with the alternator you have chosen. Marine alternator mountings generally fall into one of four possibilities:

(A) 1″ Single Foot “Spindle” (Motorola-style – Westerbeke, Lehman, Hino, Pathfinder)
(B) 2″ Single Foot “Spindle” (Delco-style – Volvo, Deere, Perkins, Mercruiser, GM-based)
(C) 3.15″ Dual Foot “Saddle” (Hitachi-style – Yanmar, Westerbeke, Lehman, Perkins)
(D) 4″ Dual Foot “Saddle” (J180-style – John Deere, Cummins, Caterpillar)

Examples of these mounting styles are shown on the right. Review your existing alternator mounting to determine the appropriate mounting for your upgrade. Each Balmar alternator mounting style is identified by a unique part number.

Step 5: Determine Your Belt and Pulley Requirements

Engine drive belt style and width is also a critical factor when selecting a Balmar replacement charging system. Higher output alternators require more drive power to be taken off the engine. All belts have specific limitations regarding the amount of power take-off (“PTO”) loads they can support. Failure to specify an adequate belt/pulley system could result in premature belt wear, belt slippage and potential damage to the alternator and engine. Balmar alternators are shipped with pulleys which are appropriate for the alternator’s output.

6-Series Alternators from 70A-100A can ship with either a Standard 1/2″ Single Deep Vee, Dual Deep Vee or K6 Serpentine Pulley.*
6-Series Alternators from 120A-150A can ship with either a Standard 1/2″ Dual Deep Vee or K6 Serpentine Pulley.*
AT-Series Alternators can ship with either a Standard 1/2″ Dual Deep Vee or K6 Serpentine Pulley.*
Pulley Kit* Note: Balmar’s 1/2″ Deep Vee Pulleys (Single or Dual) can accept a 3/8″ and 7/16″ belt.

Identify the pulley style and size present on your engine and water pump before upgrading the charging system. If the alternator output you have chosen exceeds the capability of your existing belt/pulley system, you can upgrade the pulley system using one of Balmar’s patented Altmount Pulley Conversion Kits. Click here to find the applicable AltMount Conversion Kit for your engine and alternator choice. Here are some additional rules-of-thumb to guide your choices:

  • Balmar 6-Series Alternators from 70A-100A can perform with a 1/2″ Single Vee pulley. If you need to charge above 100A, then you will need a Dual Vee or K6 Serpentine pulley system to be present on your engine to avoid a pulley upgrade. If a Dual Vee or Serpentine is not present, then an AltMount Conversion Kit is required.
  • Many boaters choose to limit their charging system upgrade to a 100A 6-Series Alternator Package to avoid the additional purchase of a pulley conversion.
  • Unless you own a recently produced engine which already contains a Dual Vee or Serpentine pulley system, the superior power afforded by the AT-Series Alternator Package will in most cases require an AltMount Conversion Kit upgrade.
  • Choose wisely! Need more help? – call Go2marine Technical Support to review your existing configuration and needs.

With the completion of these 5 steps, you have reviewed all the critical variables required to choose the correct charging system upgrade for your vessel. The chart below identifies common small case configurations of 6-Series and AT-Series charging systems. Use our interactive Charging System Configurator to determine your exact needs.

Small Case Alternator Kit Selection Chart – Common Configurations

Balmar Product Family Output Power Take Off Mounting Alternator Part Number Balmar External Regulator Temp Sensors Alternator Kit Number AltMount
Pulley Kit
6-Series(2) 70 A 2.8 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) 621-70-SV ARS-5-H(1) MC-TS-A & MC-TS-B 621-VUP-70-SV No
621-70-DV 621-VUP-70-DV
621-70-K6 621-VUP-70-K6
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) 60-70-SV 60-YP-70-SV
60-70-DV 60-YP-70-DV
60-70-K6 60-YP-70-K6
100 A 4.0 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) 621-100-SV 621-VUP-100-SV
621-100-DV 621-VUP-100-DV
621-100-K6 621-VUP-100-K6
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) 60-100-SV 60-YP-100-SV
60-100-DV 60-YP-100-DV
60-100-K6 60-YP-100-K6
120 A 4.8 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) 621-120-DV 621-VUP-120-DV Yes

If a Dual Vee or
Serpentine Pulley
is Not Already

See the

621-120-K6 621-VUP-120-K6
621-120-J10 621-VUP-120-J10
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) 60-120-DV 60-YP-120-DV
60-120-K6 60-YP-120-K6
60-120-J10 60-YP-120-J10
70A, 24V 5.6 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) 621-24-70-DV MC-624-H 621-VUP-24-70-DV
621-24-70-K6 621-VUP-24-70-K6
621-24-70-J10 621-VUP-24-70-J10
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) 60-24-70-DV 60-YP-24-70-DV
60-24-70-K6 60-YP-24-70-K6
60-24-70-J10 60-YP-24-70-J10
AT-Series 165 A 5.2 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) AT-SF-165-DV MC-614-H AT-SF-165-DV-KIT
AT-SF-165-K6 AT-SF-165-K6-KIT
AT-SF-165-J10 AT-SF-165-J10-KIT
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) AT-DF-165-DV AT-DF-165-DV-KIT
AT-DF-165-K6 AT-DF-165-K6-KIT
AT-DF-165-J10 AT-DF-165-J10-KIT
200 A 6.0 HP 1-2″ Single Foot (Spindle) AT-SF-200-DV AT-SF-200-DV-KIT
AT-SF-200-K6 AT-SF-200-K6-KIT
AT-SF-200-J10 AT-SF-200-J10-KIT
3.15″ Dual Foot (Saddle) AT-DF-200-DV AT-DF-200-DV-KIT
AT-DF-200-K6 AT-DF-200-K6-KIT
AT-DF-200-J10 AT-DF-200-J10-KIT

UBB (Rotate)(1) An MC-614 Regulator can be substituted for the ARS-5 when support for a second alternator or twin engines is required. Smartgauge
(2) 6-Series Alternators are “Smart-Ready” and can be installed with or without a Balmar Multi-Stage Regulator.

Step 6: Select Additional Charging System Options

Now that you have selected an appropriate Balmar Alternator Kit, complete your purchase by adding a SmartgaugeTM Battery Monitor and a Belt Buddy Tensioning Kit!

Putting out Fires with FM-200 – Safe, No Residue, Non-toxic & Eco-Friendly

Sea-Fire Marine manufactures a unique fire suppression system that utilizes FM-200,  the most accepted and safest extinguishing agent on the market.

FM-200 Offers:

  • Safe for use in occupied spaces
  • Will not cause thermal shock damage
  • Residual free
  • Electrically non-conductive

Sea-Fire extinguishers are available in sizes to accommodate any vessel, engine room, pilot house or cabin. The fire extinguisher is available in either automatic, or manual automatic. The corrosion resistant container is covered with a 3 year warranty and is USCG, Transport Canada,  South African Maritime Safety Authority (SAMSA) approved. Sea-Fire builds extinguisher systems for marine, galley, server room and race car applications.

FM-200 is the most accepted and safest extinguishing agent on the market. FM-200 is safe for use in occupied spaces and engine compartments, it is the same compound used in pharmaceutical asthma inhalers. FM-200 is electrically non-conductive, residual free and will not cause thermal shock damage. It is also environmentally safe; it is accepted under the U.S. EPA’s Significant New Alternatives Policy and is an accepted replacement for products banned under the Montreal Protocol. FM-200 has zero ozone depletion potential and is recoverable and recyclable at the end of its useful service life.

Because of the unique nature of the extinguishing agent, FM-200 is only factory refillable.

Dual Station Engine Controls


sepOutboard DS UNIT:

The DS unit is designed for those boaters that like using one lever to do both throttle and shift in their dual station boat. The Station Selector allows smooth

operation of dual function controls in a dual station application.


The dual function DS unit is great for dual station boats without a lot of room on the dash or if you wanted to use side mounted controls in two stations.

Just put both levers in neutral, turn the selector switch and you have changed stations.

SeaStar Solutions recommends that you only use the 33C cable part number CCX633XX with the DS unit.


Allows dual function mechanical controls to be used in a dual station boat.

Side mount controls can now be used in dual station boats.

You only require one station selector for both a single engine or dual station boats.

Using the recommended control cables allow smooth control operation.


207573 Dual Station Gear Unit 207573 Dual Station gear unit 20757

Single Engine Outboard

Quantity  Part Number Description  Notes
 1  207573 DS Gear Unit  Two Cables in one Cable to Shifter
 1 204993  Station Selector Unit  One Cable from Unit to Gear DS Unit
 1 207572   DS Throttle Unit   Two Cables in one Cable to Throttle
 1 CCX633XX   Cable to go from selector to gear ds unit   xx = cable length in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from station 1 to gear ds unit xx = cable lengthgth in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from station 2 to gear ds unit xx = cable lengthgth in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from gear unit to transmission xx = cable lengthgth in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from station 1 to throttle ds unit xx = cable lengthgth in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from station 2 to throttle ds unit xx = cable lengthgth in feet
 1 ccx 633xx cable from throttle unit to engine xx = cable lengthgth in feet
1 engine adapter kit for the control cables unless provided by the engine manufacturer
1 dual action control per station = 2 total controls that must use 3300/33c style XTREME control cables ccx633xx

Dual engine outboards

quantity  part number description
2  207573  DS Gear Unit
1 204993   station selector unit
2  207572  DS throttle unit
2 ccx 633xx cable to go from selector to gear ds units
1 ccx 633xx cable from port station 1 to gear ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from starboard station 1 to gear ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from port station 2 to gear ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from starboard station 2 to gear ds unit
2 ccx 633xx cable from gear ds units to transmissions
1 ccx 633xx cable from port station 1 to throttle ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from starboard station 1 to throttle ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from port station 2 to throttle ds unit
1 ccx 633xx cable from starboard station 2 to throttle ds unit
2 ccx 633xx cable from throttle ds unitS to engines
2 engine adapter kit for the control cables unless provided by the engine manufacturer
1 dual action twin lever control per station = 2 total controls that must use 3300/33c style control cables ccx633xx

Adjustable Backstay/Running Backs out of AmSteel


Over the years, I’ve made a lot of standing and running rigging for Transpac racers.  From sleek little rocket sleds to boats you might expect to see a family cruising the San Juans on, they usually invest in new rigging for the rigors of the 2,200 mile trip from LA to Diamond Head.  A lot of the boats that do this kind of long-distance, open ocean racing have adjustable backstays and/or running backstays.  This allows the sailor to put more or less tension on the mast to affect the shape of the mainsail and jib, support the mast bend, reduce pumping, etc.  In the old days, these might have been made from 7×19 wire rope since they often have to bend over some kind of block.  As that wire gets older, the strands break, making nasty little barbs that will tear through anything they encounter (e.g. sails, lines, fingers, etc.).  Now, we have the benefit of high tech fiber rigging like AmSteel and its numerous 12 strand single braid brethren.  This is in essence an economical way to build PBO rigging yourself.

Some additional benefits of using fiber vs. wire are factors like fatigue (a material’s tendency to get more brittle after it has been bent), weight aloft which reduces the keel’s effectiveness, not to mention the ability for the sailor to splice a new one while underway instead of carrying swaging equipment.

AmSteel has some UV resistance from the colored coating it comes from the factory with, but Spectra has very little unless you coat it with MaxiJacket or similar product.  There is a product called VPE – Vectran with a Polyethylene coating (basically heat shrink) that is very popular for making running backs.  The coating is there to protect the Vectran fibers from UV damage.  You can make your own VPE from AmSteel and heat shrink tubing if needed.  Here is the procedure for making your own adjustable backstay bridle or running backs.  These are just a length of AmSteel with an eye spliced onto a heavy duty stainless steel thimble on both ends and the whole thing is covered in heat shrink.

We highly recommend being very proficient with the regular AmSteel splices (e.g. Brummel Lock and Modified Brummel Lock) before attempting this procedure.  It is considerably more difficult to build the second end with the first eye and the heat shrink complicating matters.  We also recommend practicing rolling an eye splice onto a thimble to get the knack for sizing the eye to the thimble and getting the splice onto the thimble.

We’re going to focus on just doing one end first.  We’ll deal with the second end later in the procedure.  Do not jump ahead and do anything to the second end until directed.  We’re also going to leave the AmSteel long before determining where the finished length cut will be because we have to determine the shrinkage factor of the splices.  If you’re not splicing off the spool, cut your AmSteel about five feet longer than your finished length.  It may seem a bit wasteful, but it’s a cheap insurance policy to make sure your finished product is right.  Plus, you can always use a piece of AmSteel for something.

  • Make a reference mark on the AmSteel 4′ from the end.  This will be used later to determine the amount of shrinkage the splice takes up.


  • Make your marks for the tail bury and eye size for the appropriately sized heavy duty, stainless steel thimble.  Record your tail bury length for future reference (example:  9″).  Measure from your reference mark to the end of the eye, where it bends around the thimble.  This will be your reference measurement (example:  2′ 10″).



  • Add heat shrink to just the section that will create the eye around the thimble.



  • Lock stitch the taper, do not whip the eye as in the regular procedure.


  • Measure the new distance from your reference mark to the end of the eye (example:  2′ 8″).  The difference between the two measurements (example:  2″) is the amount of shrinkage you have to add to the other end for the second splice.
  • When determining the finished length, make sure to account for how much it will stretch while under load.  AmSteel is rated for 0.46% stretch at 10% of it’s breaking strength, so for a 30′ running back, here’s the calculation:

30′ x 12″ = 360″ x 0.46% = 1-5/8″ stretch


  • From the end of the eye, measure your nominal finished length (example:  30′), add one half of the eye size (example:  if thimble is 5″ around, add 2-1/2″), add the length of the tail bury (example:  9″) then subtract for the stretch factor (example:  -1-5/8″).

Finished length + 1/2 thimble + tail bury – shrinkage

30′ + 2-1/2″ + 9″ -1-5/8″ = 30′ 9-7/8″

  • Make your cut there.  Measure back 9″ and make a mark, bend the AmSteel around  your thimble on and make the second mark.


  • Cover the section between the marks of the second eye with heat shrink as before.


  • You should have 5 pieces of heat shrink on hand.  First is one long piece that’s a close fit to the original rope diameter and approximately the finished length of your line.  Sometimes this long piece is made up of more than one section to enable you to slide the heat shrink around to finish the splice on the second end and get complete heat shrink coverage of the entire piece.  In addition to the small diameter long piece(s), you should have a medium diameter piece that transitions and covers the splice tapers and overlaps the small diameter piece by at least a foot.  Third is a large diameter piece that covers the base of the thimble and overlaps the medium piece by a few inches.  Slide all the heat shrink onto the line.  You may need to figure out some way to fish the AmSteel down the long length(s) of the small diameter heat shrink.  I’ve even resorted to running a string down through the heat shrink and using that to pull the tapered end of AmSteel.





  • After all the heat shrink necessary to cover the entire line has been slipped over the AmSteel, scrunch the small diameter heat shrink far enough away from the second end to give you access to enough AmSteel for the second splice.  You will probably need to pin the heat shrink back to do the splice, but make sure not to damage the heat shrink.




  • The second eye will be the standard Brummel Lock because you can’t slide the first eye with the thimble through the second end.  Make sure to build the eye the exact right size to roll onto the thimble.  Too loose and the thimble won’t be captured, too tight and you won’t be able to get the thimble into the eye.

NOTE:  Do not perform the bury part of the splice.  If the finished eye is not the right size, you’ll be able to more easily redo the splice.  Make sure you can roll the eye tightly over the thimble before burying the taper.  Also, the Brummel lock is also considerably more difficult to do with the heat shrink over the eye.  Make sure you dramatically enlarge the inverted part of the splice to wrestle the eye through.  Be careful not to damage the heat shrink during the splicing process.





  • Now, roll your spliced eye onto the thimble.  It should be relatively difficult for a proper fit.  Place the pointy end of the thimble into the crotch of the splice, then roll one side of the eye into the channel on the thimble.  You should be able to just stretch and roll the eye over the end of the thimble so that it pops into place.  Laying the assembly flat onto the work surface and massaging the roll into place with the heel of your palm sometimes helps.



  • Perform the taper and bury part of the splice once you’re happy with the fit of the eye over the thimble.


  • Lock stitch the buried taper.


  • Load up the assembly to take out the stretch from the factory by using a block and tackle system or a winch mounted on the bench or a come-along.  Let sit overnight.




  • The next day, slide the medium and large heat shrink out of the way so you can get to the center of the small heat shrink.  While the line is still loaded, starting from the center of the assembly, use a heat gun on the heat shrink and work your way to either end, but stop before you heat the medium heat shrink.  Slide the medium and large heat shrink out of the way so you can heat up the ends of the small heat shrink near the buried tapers.  NOTE:  You should be able to see the weave of the AmSteel through the heat shrink but do not melt the heat shrink.



  • Once the small diameter heat shrink is completely shrunk, slide the medium sized heat shrink up over the tapered bury and butt it up against the thimble.  Heat shrink that into place.  It should cover the small heat shrink by several inches.


  • Once the medium heat shrink is in place, slide the large diameter heat shrink up over the base of the thimble and shrink it.  It should cover the medium sized heat shrink enough for a good bond.



  • OPTIONAL:  Some people use the “cone” of large diameter heat shrink on the inside of the thimble as a form to pour a small amount of 5 minute epoxy into.  This nominally keeps water out of the splice and supports the thimble when the line is loaded.


NOTE:  When taking the load off the assembled line and transporting it out to the boat, do not bend or coil the line any more than absolutely necessary.  This will relax the fibers and cause the line to draw back up, undoing the effect of loading it up overnight and possibly making it more difficult to install.

Congratulations!  You’re done.  Now you’re ready to install it onto the boat.  Remember that since you accounted for the stretch, it might be a tight fit.  Please feel free to post comments and/or questions.

Captain Chris Larsen

Installing a New Custom Boat Lift Canopy


Boat lift canopies are used to protect boats from natural destructive forces such as the wind, rain and the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Many captains with a wide variety of boat shapes and sizes wish to extend the life of their vessel. Custom boat lift canopies are available by CoverTuff and cover the following boat lifts: Shore Station, Lakeshore, Pier Pleasure, Daka, Newman, Porta Lift, Floe, Feighner, Midlander, Shoremaster and Hewitt.

Both CoverTuff canopies come with installation instructions and mounting hardware to secure the item using a bungee system.

Older canopy covers often use a spring loaded pin that locks the tubular sections of a canopy into place at a selected position.

Newer canopies provide for secure installation by using bungee cords that attach to the product’s framework. Some models use several individual bungee cords, while others use a single continuous cord that ties to the canopy’s frame.

Boaters can order custom boat lift canopies that fit their exact measurements and specifications. Many are composed of threads that are resistant to UV rays, and included welded, double needle seams to improve leak resistance.

Visit CoverTuff Custom Boat Lift Canopy Covers to aid in measuring and fabric selection with your custom boat lift cover.

Amp Up with a Marine High Output Alternator


alternatorHave you recently added to your boat’s electronics inventory or have you installed a mega-watt stereo system and lights on your boat?  Have you added to your vessel’s battery bank and now finding that your batteries are not getting charged fully, or that they take an extremely long time to achieve a full charge?  If so, consider the best approach to upgrading your electrical system-increase your electrical production! The alternators supplied with most small marine engines – whether gas or diesel – are usually 35 to 60 amp automotive alternators.  Late model marine engines could have 70 to 80 amp automotive alternators.  A heavy duty marine high output alternator produces more power at lower rpm, instead of high output at high rpm- freeway speeds for an automobile.

BALMAR produces a series of high output marine alternators.  The most popular for small marine gas and diesel engines is the BALMAR 6-series alternator, which is available in outputs of 70, 100, 120 and 150 amps.  If your engine is equipped with a single 3/8″ wide alternator belt you will be restricted to a maximum of 70 amps.  A 1/2” belt will work for up to a 100 amp alternator.  If your engine is equipped with dual v-belts or a single flat belt, you could use the 120 or 150 amp 6-series alternator.  Even if your marine engine is equipped with a 55 amp alternator, which is a commonly used size, the 70 amp version of the 6-series will produce far more power even though it is rated at only slightly more than your current alternator because it is producing higher output at lower engine revolutions.

The 6-series alternator is available in a variety of mounting styles to fit most marine gas or two to four cylinder marine diesel engines. The BALMAR 6-series alternators have a long history of providing reliable power and are found on sailing and power vessels around the world.  The compact size of this alternator often is smaller than the lower output alternator it replaces. This alternator has a built-in voltage regulator, but if your boat has multiple batteries or battery banks, a BALMAR external voltage regulator must be used for maximum charging efficiency. This also gives the benefit of redundancy, if one regulator fails, a flip of a switch can enable the other regulator.

BALMAR produces marine high output alternators from 60 to 310 amp outputs.  The lighter duty 6 and 7 series are built for marine diesels such as Yanmar 2, 3 and 4 cylinder engines and gasoline marine engines.  The heavy duty 94 and 95 series alternators are for engines such as the popular Cummins 6BT5.9L.  The extreme duty 97 and 98 series, with output up to 310 amps, are for very high output marine applications.

There are BALMAR alternator and regulator kits available, with different kits suitable for a variety of engine makes and models. The kits are available with either BALMAR’s top of the line Max Charge MC-614, or the BALMAR high performance ARS-5 regulator. The kits also include temperature sensors for both the alternator and battery, which help the regulator determine the appropriate steps in the charge cycle, and assures that the batteries are charged quickly and safely. The BALMAR 6-series alternator and a BALMAR external regulator is the best, easy to install addition to maximize your vessel’s electrical power needs.

Installing Dock Edge and Post Bumpers


Aside from fenders, a variety of products are available for purchase that will protect boats from the hard corners or sided of docks. Dock edges are sometimes preferable to fenders because they can permanently be kept in place and offer an alternative for protecting one’s vessel. Options include wave dock guards, dock corner edging and both single and double tube bumpers.


Removable Post Bumpers

A really handy product on the market is a post bumper that you can keep on your boat so that when you cruise into new ports and you do not need to worry about scuffing up your boat. These Removable Post Bumpers come equipped with polyester webbing and a heavy-duty Derlin buckle system which allows for a quick, easy and secure installation. Simply wrap the webbing around the piling, snap the buckle and pull tight. When you’re ready to depart, simply unbuckle and stow.

Fixed Dock and Post Bumpers



Taylor Made Products / Perimeter Industries dock and post bumpers are made of a polyester cloth that will not scuff your boat. There are two methods to install these bumpers. The “fold over” method hides the fasteners so that there is no worry that the boat can become scuffed by the fasteners. It also ensures that people do not trip on the fasteners when they are walking on the dock. The other method is the “top of dock”. This method provides greater downward tear strength. It also provides for greater protection for top and corner of dock for greatly sloped boat hulls. See the full installation instructions.

Choices and Considerations for Shower and Sump Pumps


A fully-stocked modern 36-40 foot powerboat can contain more than a dozen pumps that carry out an array of tasks. Sump pumps are commonly used to move shower, sink or sump water from the utility to storage tanks in the vessel. The water will be pumped into a gray water waste tank, which can be emptied out at the dock, using another pump.

These utility pumps typically come with a built-in pressure valve that shuts down the pressurizing system when the pump reaches full pressure. Most marine pumps that move these slurry liquids are diaphragm pumps. These products contain an internal chamber with an entrance and exit, and a membrane that expands when the chamber draws in water.

The 50880 Series Jabsco sink, shower and bilge pump, is a quiet-running pump that boasts a flow rate of over four gallons per minute. It is available in either 12 or 24 DC volts and is fully resistant to corrosion.

Jabsco’s diaphragm pumps can be used to pump sump water at a flow rate of 3-5 gallons per minute, and can often be used for deck washing as well. Additionally, the unique design of this product allows for it to run dry for extended periods without damage.

Freshwater Marine Pumps: Par Max

The original Peters and Russell Pumps – PAR, by Jabsco (now a division of XYLEM)

The original PAR (Peters and Russell) belt driven diaphragm water pumps by Jabsco are the grandfather of the electric boating pumps. 80% of all boats made today will have a PAR or Jabsco pump of one kind or another on-board the vessel.

The most common use for a pump on-board a vessel is to move fresh water from a tank to the fixture or from a tank or bilge to a thruhull.

This classic belt drive Jabsco “PAR” freshwater, shower and grey water pump utilizes the original Peters and Russell (Inc., Springfield, Ohio) design that has dependably served the marine industry for nearly 50 years! In many cases parts are still available and these ‘chugging’ diaphragm pumps just keep working and working. The biggest advantages of these pumps is their ability to digest some large materials and limited dry running.

The modern Jabsco PAR-Max pump series takes a different, if not more compact approach to pumping freshwater. The PAR-Max pumps are numbered 1-4 and will serve a variety of needs.

The PAR-Max Plus is the next generation of water pumps.

The high pressure capability of the new Jabsco PAR-Max Plus Series water pressure pumps, available in 4.0, 5.0, and 6.0 GPM models, provides exceptional flow and consistent water pressure to easily handle the demand of multiple outlets. All PAR-Max Plus models include soft rubber mounts and quick connect fittings for ease of installation. The patented PAR-Max Plus co-injected molded diaphragm and larger heavier duty motor brushes significantly extend pump life up to 50% longer than existing Jabsco PAR-Max Series diaphragm pumps.

The PAR-Max Plus series is self-priming up to 10ft (3m) and can run dry without damage. It’s manufactured from corrosion resistant materials, capable of handling the harshest marine environments. Available in both 12 or 24 volt DC versions, the PAR-Max Plus series water pressure pumps are certified to EN ISO 8846 Marine (Ignition Protection).

Older generations Par-Max pumps:

The PAR-Max Series of pumps feature pressure switches as well as being conveniently sized for your application; PAR-Max 1 will service 1 water fitting, PAR-Max 4 will service 4 water fittings. The PAR-Max pumps can be used for freshwater, water transfer, wash-down. These pumps can be run dry. Rebuild service kits are available.

Jabsco also maufactures Rule Bilge Pumps and Flojet Freshwater Pumps.

Choosing a Regulatory, Ski or Personal Water Craft Marker Buoy

Sur-Mark White Can Regulatory Marker Buoy

Sur-Mark White Can Regulatory Marker Buoy

When selecting a type of regulatory buoys, certain requirements must be met to comply with the regulations set by the authorities who govern local waterways. Many regulatory buoys, such as those manufactured by Taylor Made, are filled with polyurethane foam and have concrete weight to retain a balance between weight and buoyancy that keeps them stable, upright and floating correctly on the surface of the water.

Regulatory buoys may have a strobe on top for night operation. Labels to indicate a boating hazard or an action that is required from the boater may be attached around the buoy. Most states require regulatory buoys to be visible 39” above the surface of the water; Taylor Made meets these requirements.

Marker buoys are typically used to temporarily indicate a course, boundary or hazard. When it comes to purchasing marker buoys, boaters have the choice of either hard or air inflation buoys in a variety of colors. Taylor Made’s personal water craft buoys have a variety of uses. Aside from functioning as marker buoys, the can also be used as pick-up buoys or fenders for a jet ski. These products are made using a double color system to ensure that they will stay bright and fluorescent for years to come.

Taylor Made’s water ski marker buoys are constructed from PVC, so they are both lightweight and durable. Each of these buoys contains an inflation valve to control air pressure and a built-in anchor line loop. These inflatable items are also ideal for marking a slalom course, in accordance with the specifications set by the American Water Ski Association.

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